How to Guide

How to guide

How To Get Started
Before you proceed with purchasing your products, there are some questions that you will want to ask yourself. These questions relate to the present condition of your vehicle and the selection of products that will produce the best results in meeting your unique needs. Let's start with the questions that apply to all surfaces.

1. Has it been over 1 year since you cleaned and conditioned the surface?
The reason is probably obvious. If the answer is yes, you can expect that there has been significant accumulation of a variety of contaminants. This applies to both the exterior and the interior surfaces.

2. Has the surface received any unusually hard use or exposure?
Examples might be high exposure to: sunlight; airborne acids; industrial fallout; wide ranges in temperature or humidity; surface scratches from car washes; lack of garaging; or lack of use of a car cover. The job here is to determine the specific cleaning steps and any options that will need to be considered.

3. Has the surface been exposed to material that has the potential to bond, etch or imbed in the surface?
This is another aspect of how to determine which product options will produce the best results in cleaning the surface. Specific surface conditions include exposure to: heavy air pollution; paint overspray; extensive brake dust accumulation; road tar and oil; bird droppings; tree sap; water spots; and residue from previous cleaning, polishing or waxing materials.
Where the answer is yes to the questions above, you should seriously consider the use of a separate products to perform the cleaning of the surface before proceeding to the conditioning and/or polishing steps.
Major Job Categories
I have chosen to group the detailing tasks into categories that are related in the sequence in which they are performed and the products and tools that are used. The major categories are:

Wheels/Engine/Trim

Paint

Glass

Interior

Wheels/Engine/Trim
The products to clean and condition these surfaces are grouped together because we recommend that you use the same products for multiple porous surfaces (rubber and plastic) and non-porous surfaces (metal and engine compartment paint). Wherever possible we will suggest that you use a single product for multiple applications. This will save money and storage space without compromising the quality of the results.
Wheels
The first step in washing your vehicle will normally be to clean the wheels, tires and wheel wells. This is an extremely important step, since brake dust, if allowed to remain on the wheel surface, can permanently bond with and etch the surface.
The wheel cleaning process uses two cleaning solutions, brushes and a separate bucket and mitt, if possible. The solution for cleaning the wheels (use a pressure tank sprayer or spray bottle to apply) has a higher pH level (Ace's Atomizer's ph is 12-13ph) than the car wash solution (6-8 ph). This is required to dissolve the brake dust that accumulates on the wheel surface. Follow the directions provided by the manufacturer of the wheel cleaner and use a brush or brushes that have either a wood or plastic handle if possible. There is the potential for chipping or scratching with a metal brush. Dip your brush in the shampoo solution when removing the wheel cleaner and make sure that you do not allow the wheel cleaning solution to dry on the wheel and tire surface. Many of these cleaning solutions will etch the wheel, if allowed to dry without rinsing, so thoroughly spray both the wheels and the wells with water.

Engine
The first step is to remove the debris that you will find in the channels of the body, hood and the grill openings. If you have an air compressor available, this is the best way to accomplish this job. If you do not, then use your hands and/or a brush to clean out these channels. The next step is to cover all electrical connections with plastic film, plastic bags or even tin foil. The connections that I am referring to are sensors, distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential to have water accumulate and cause a short. Use tape to seal the plastic surrounding these connections to prevent water from reaching the device.
When the engine compartment has been prepared, you are ready to completely wet down the fenders, grill, top and bottom of the hood/deck lid and the entire engine compartment. A pressure washer is beneficial, but not necessary. It is very important to thoroughly wet down all painted surfaces that surround the engine compartment, since the solution that you will use for cleaning has the strength to strip the protective coatings on these surfaces. If these surfaces are dry there is also the possibility that the surface can be discolored by the degreasing product and additional time and effort would be required to correct this problem.
The cleaner/degreaser is packaged in two different strength levels - diluted (ready to use) and undiluted. If the product is undiluted, carefully read the instructions regarding the ratio of product to water. We recommend either a pressure tank sprayer or a spray bottle for application of the diluted product (we use an engine-cleaning wand attached to our air compressor). The product works most effectively when all of the surfaces to be cleaned have received a thorough soaking. When the product has been sprayed, wash any excess off the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grill. Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, the amount of time that the product should be allowed to stay on the engine components should be no more than two to three minutes (see the instructions on the container). For light to mild levels of grease, there will probably not be any need for use of a brush on the engine and other surfaces. For heavy soil, you can use a long handled brush and car wash solution to provide an additional cleaning action prior to removal of the degreasing solution.
When you are ready to remove the product, you should completely soak down the entire compartment and the surrounding surfaces. If you use a pressure washer be careful that you do not get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors. Allow the surfaces to air dry for several minutes before proceeding to use a towel to absorb any large amounts of water that has accumulated (we use our air compressor here again to speed up the process). The heat from the engine assists the drying process. Use of the towel will speed up the process and set the stage for the next step.
When the compartment has dried, you are ready to spray on the rubber and plastic conditioner. You will find that these products will be very easy to use with either a spray bottle or an aerosol container and you do not need to use any great amount of care in the way that you saturate the compartment. We recommend that you use a two or three inch trim brush to spread the product out over the surfaces of the engine components as the final step. This will produce an even and consistent level of coverage and smooth final appearance.
Conditioning of the Rubber and Plastic
Use of an applicator or a brush (3 in.) will simplify and provide for consistent coverage in the job of reaching into the cracks and crevices where rubber trim provides the seal for hoods, doors and deck lids. The same tools will also minimize the overlap between the painted surface and the bumpers or trim strips. This reduces the time that is required to assure you do not leave your products for either surface on the opposite one.
Depending on the type of paint surface product (wax of polymer), there can be a benefit to applying the rubber and plastic conditioner after applying the wax or polymer and before removing it. The benefit is that you are able to remove both at the same time and you can see where you need to take any extra care for thorough removal. Use a stiff, short horsehair bristle brush to clean up any residue.
PAINT
This section covers a very broad range of tasks, products and tools. The description of the tasks and steps dealing with cleaning the paint surface must address an extended number of contaminant removal requirements followed by the tasks associated with the conditioning of the clean paint
Washing the paint
Our recommendations will cover the types of solutions, brushes, wash mitt options and hand washing techniques. There is no safe alternative to washing your vehicle by hand with a neutral pH soap, developed for automotive finishes. Do not use household detergents because they are formulated to remove grease and to scour metal and porcelain. As a result, they will also remove the wax or polish on the paint surface and accelerate the process of oxidation. Use of most commercial machine car wash systems will result in some level of surface scratching. In addition, there is the potential that these car washes use recycled water and harsh phosphate soaps.
When you are ready to wash the vehicle, make sure that the paint surface is cool to the touch and wash from the top down. We recommend that you use either a natural fiber mitt, shampoo pad or good clean terry cloth. Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the amount of shampoo to use (the tendency is to use too much). Wash the vehicle in small sections (the top or the hood as examples) with frequent rinsing to prevent the water and the contaminants that you are removing from drying on the surface of the paint. The minerals in the water can also etch the paint if they are allowed to dry on the surface. Rinse your mitt or sponge frequently as you progress down the sides of the vehicle, since there is more dirt and contaminants closer to the ground. When you reach the wheels and tires give them a second washing to assure they are as clean as possible and ready for the next step in the process. Finish the washing step with a complete rinse of the entire vehicle.
There are two steps in the drying process to get the best results. The first step is to remove the largest volume of the water from the entire vehicle. We recommend a chamois, large 100% cotton towel or again an air compressor. The second step is to towel dry all surfaces, including the windows and wheels. If you have an air compressor, it's a good idea to blow out all the channels where water can accumulate. If you don't, and you want to accomplish essentially the same goal you can drive the car around the block before you start the final drying process. It's surprising how much water collects around the windows, doors and the bumpers. It is a good idea to dry the windows and the top as quickly as possible to avoid spotting. Open all the doors, the engine compartment and the trunk to eliminate any remaining run off and water tracks from the channels and jambs. Roll the windows down a few inches to clean the dirt from the seal area at the top and sides of the glass.
When the drying is complete you are ready to inspect all the exterior surface and determine which of the cleaning and conditioning options that are available will produce the best results for your unique needs. Depending on the condition of the paint, there are at least half a dozen different classifications of products that may be needed to continue with the cleaning process. Examples of these classifications include:
Wax and grease strippers

Auto solvents and Cleaners (Mineral Spirits)

Tar and road oil removers - including Acetone and Methyl Ethyl

Combination products including emulsifiers and encapsulators

"Clay" - to remove paint overspray and other imbedded contaminants

Abrasives and Glazes - multiple grades

Discussion of these cleaning and conditioning products and the additional products that are available for the glass, metal, plastic and vinyl surfaces on the exterior of your vehicle will be the subject of the next section of this Guide. In case you're getting concerned, we have only spent about an hour and a half to get to this point in the professional reconditioning of your vehicle.
Pre clean paint
After you have finished washing your vehicle, you are ready to take the next step in the process of surface preparation and cleaning. When you examine the paint, you may find that there is the need for additional cleaning products to remove the various types of contaminants that still remain on the paint's surface. In many circumstances there is the requirement for two or more additional steps and products to complete the cleaning and conditioning process.
Cleaning products that contain solvents
There is a number of paint cleaning products that employ solvents of various types and strengths to remove a wide range of surface contaminants. These cleaning products have chemical properties that vary widely in their strength, effect on the paint surface and their ability to remove different types of foreign material. These products may also contain additional components for conditioning and polishing the paint. Some level of experimentation may be required to select the most appropriate product for the specific paint condition.
Wax and grease strippers
These products are used primarily, as their name implies, to remove old wax from the surface and to assure the final polish or wax product you select will adhere properly to the clean paint surface. These products will normally not remove oxidation, swirl marks, road tar, water spots or tree sap. If the paint is in good condition and your intent is to simply remove any remaining old wax residue, these products will do an excellent job. The normal method of applying these products is to dampen a 100% cotton cloth with the product and clean a section of paint with back and forth motions. The size of the section of paint should be no larger than a single panel or, as an example, half of the vehicle's top. The stripper should not be allowed to dry on the paint surface and should be removed with a second cotton cloth within approximately a minute or two following the application.
Auto Solvents/Cleaners (mineral spirits)
These products are used for removing more stubborn contaminants such as light, soft tar, minor water spotting and some types of soft tree sap. My experience is that the most stubborn contaminants will not be affected by this type of product and will require a more concentrated solvent product. Use the same technique for application and removal indicated above, They should not be allowed to dry on the paint surface and they should be removed with a cotton towel within approximately a minute or two following their application.
Tar and Oil removers- including Methyl Ethyl Ketone
These products are harsher in their interaction with the paint surface and care should be taken to assure they do not remain on the surface over a few seconds or at most a minute or two, for the lesser strength products. These products have the potential to soften the paint and to cause discoloration. Due to their strength and active ingredients, these products will generally remove hardened tree sap and certain types of foreign paint that has been deposited on the surface. The application technique is essentially the same as the description above, with the quantity of the product reduced to the most realistic minimum level possible.
Emulsifiers and Encapsulators
These products utilize more than one type of chemical and cleaning process. We are not including any of the compound or abrasives products in this category. There are a number of different ways that these products will surround and lift various paint contaminants. Some of the products will produce the appearance of completed conditioning of the paint when they have been buffed off the surface. The appearance of the clean paint is misleading in that although it looks good it will not have the depth of gloss and luster or durability that the finishing product will produce. In addition, there is no protection from all the various contaminants that you have just removed and you can be sure they will return very quickly, if you do not proceed with the next step of the process.
In most cases these products will indicate that a small section of the surface (approximately a 2X2 foot area) should be covered, using light and equal pressure in a back and forth motion until the product becomes cloudy or tacky, but not completely dry. These products are lifting the contaminants when the second towel is applied to buff the surface.
Clay Products
These products are most frequently used to remove paint overspray from the vehicle's paint surface. The overspray condition, is most frequently caused by a paint spray gun used to paint another surface, The overspray is a deposit of airborne paint particles that are a by product when a structure is being painted in an area close to where your vehicle was parked.
The clay products should be used with caution, since they are designed to lift contaminants and carry them away from the paint surface in the clay material. I'm sure you can see the potential for surface scratching to take place if considerable care is not exercised. On the plus side these products can frequently remove overspray without resorting to loss of the paint surface through use of compounds that contain abrasives. The clays are used in conjunction with either soapy water or a spray detail product as a wetting agent for the gentle rubbing of the paint surface with the clay. This process is similar to wet sand paper procedures.
Abrasives, compounds and glazes
These products remove paint from your vehicle's surface. The only question is how much. There are several paint conditions where there is no alternative but to use of an abrasive product to correct the problem. You should always use great care in the selection of the product and be sure to start with the least invasive product that will correct your vehicle's paint damage. There is no turning back when you use an abrasive and there is no way to put the paint back on when you go too far. The range of abrasive grit can be thought of as roughly comparable to wet sand paper. There are compound products that will be equivalent to the highest level of sandpaper or approximately 2000 grit.
The types of paint damage that will usually require one of these products include heavy oxidation, water spotting where there is a high concentration of minerals, paint overspray that has bonded over an extended time and several types of air pollution that contain various acid components. The normal procedure is to use an applicator and to cover an area of 2X2 feet with a back and forth motion. The product should not be allowed to dry and should be removed when it becomes cloudy or tacky. Depending on the type of contaminant and the depth of the problem area that must be removed, there may be the need to use more than one product to first eliminate the problem and then eliminate the scratches in the paint surface that result from the use of the first compound.
Applying and buffing polymers and waxes
There are two primary product categories on the market for protecting automotive paint finishes. These product categories are polymers, which are synthetic, man made substances, and waxes, which are naturally occurring substances found in trees. All of the products in these categories are generically described as resins.
There has been a great deal of discussion regarding the merits of each product category and there are individuals that strongly support each one. The argument has been made that the naturally occurring substances are somehow superior to the synthetic products simply because they are natural. My comment in this regard is that there is nothing about automotive paint finishes that are "natural" in their chemical formulation. The synthetic polymers are, in fact, more similar to the chemical composition of the paint itself than the natural products. This does not mean that one product category is superior to another. It is only a statement of fact.
A better basis for how to decide on a product to use on your vehicle is to evaluate the combination of factors that are important to you over the long term (approximately one-year). The factors that seem to be of most significance to most people are as follows:
Cost per application - coupled with durability and appearance.

Depth of gloss - difficult to evaluate consistently.

Ease of use - relatively easy to assess.

Durability - subjective but measurable to some degree

There are several general comments that can be made about the categories, even though there is a broad range of products and it is not practical to spell out specific steps in the use of each one. The information that follows is intended to not offend any of the individual manufacturers.
Essentially all of the manufacturers will recommend that the finish product should be applied in a front to back motion with either a 100% cotton cloth or applicator pad. The amount of time that should elapse and the appearance of the product while it is drying/curing vary dramatically. This time factor can range from minutes for waxes to days, if you choose to achieve maximum bonding for polymers. In most buffing steps the gloss will be enhanced if the product is misted with water (sprayed lightly) prior to removal. This step will produce a more burnished final appearance, but it will require substantially more time and effort. For the individual who wants the highest level of final gloss this step is worth the effort, even though the manufacturer will not usually indicate this procedure in their instructions.
All polymer and wax products should be hand finished. The use of a rotary buffer is not recommended, unless it is in the hands of a highly qualified professional. The risks are too high relative to the damage that can be done. Use of an orbital buffer with either a high quality cotton or foam pad, can reduce the effort of removal of the finish product while incurring only a very low risk of damage to the surface. In all cases, the final step in removal should be by hand.
There are a number of tools that are associated with the detailing of the paint surface when the finish product is being removed. These tools will be discussed in a later section of this Guide. These tools make the difference between an adequate final appearance and an outstanding one.
Polymers
The initial cost of most polymers will be higher than their counterpart waxes. This acquisition cost must be evaluated in the light of the per application amount of the product used. Essentially all of the manufacturers will make a strong point of the small amount of product that should be used on the paint surface. This is truly a situation where less is best.
As a general statement, polymers will last longer than waxes. This durability factor is of significant consideration to many people. The range of different product life spans will vary, but there can be a factor of up to three to five times when compared to waxes.
Across the board, there is an edge to the polymers when comparing ease of use. They will go on easier and come off faster with minimal effort. An additional benefit is the clarity and refractive consistency that the polymers produce on the finish surface. Most polymers can also be applied easily to glass and to metal. If this is the case, there is an additional benefit relative to wheels in particular. The ability to remove brake dust can be dramatically improved with little effort.
When comparing depth of gloss, the high quality waxes have an edge. You will find that the majority of show cars will have wax finishes. There is no question that there are a number of polymer products that are excellent, but for the short-term (3 to 5 days) environment, most show car owners will use a high quality wax.
Waxes
In most cases the acquisition cost of waxes is lower. As indicated in the comments on polymers, there is the need to think about the per application cost and the frequency, when considering cost. There is a much wider range of wax products to choose from, when compared to polymers. The more expensive wax products frequently provide extensive instructions for their use. If you follow these instructions you will achieve outstanding results.
Due to the fact that the waxes do not bond as well to the paint surface as the polymers do, the life of the waxes will be shorter than the polymers. The stripping effect of many of the shampoo/soaps will be higher with waxes, especially if the shampoo is not formulated for paint finishes and/or has a high phosphate content.
The top quality waxes have an excellent depth of gloss and brilliance. In general they are more time consuming to apply and to remove. They will also be prone to producing a wavy, somewhat uneven, reflection of light unless care is taken in both the application and the buffing steps.
Utilizing Spray Detailers and Dry washes
These products are all interim maintenance in nature for non-porous surfaces, rather than long term solutions.. Many of them are essentially diluted versions of the primary wax or polymer products that the manufacturer offers. They are very good for fast and easy application and removal of dust, fingerprints, smudges, and smears and with some cases tree sap, bird droppings and water spotting. The spray detailers can be used on paint, glass and metal. They represent one of the better options for exterior glass cleaning in particular. Although not a durable solution, they can be used as an option to washing the vehicle.
The dry wash products such as Enviro-Techs "Dri Wash ’n Guard" work great if the vehicle is not to dirty. There is no need to wash the vehicle first. Just apply and buff to a high shine. It will last up to one year but more frequent applications like every three months is more desirable.
The dusters rely on chemically treated cloths or yarn like fibers to lift dust and other loose contaminants without the use of water. Some of these products use waxes imbedded in the fibers and as a result they can leave some streaking unless there is an additional buffing step. Many of the dusters actually seem to do a better job after they have been used several times and the excess wax has dissipated.

Glass
We have found that the products which contain ammonia do a good job of removing the accumulation of dirt and film that is found on both the inside and the outside of the windows. You can find these glass cleaning products in your local market.
One of the main problems associated with cleaning the inside surface of the glass is the accumulation of contaminants from decomposition of the vinyl and plastic components of the interior. This decomposition and transfer to the surface of the glass is brought about by the action of the sun. The ultra violet (UV) rays cause a decomposition of the vinyl. This in turn creates a buildup on the surface of the glass.
We recommend that you use two cotton towels to clean and dry the surface. Spray the cleaner on the first towel - not the glass. This is to prevent the cleaner from getting on the surface of the dashboard. Many of the cleaners will remove the conditioning products that you use on the surface of the dash. Carefully reach into the corners of the glass to get all of the contaminants. You can use a plastic tool to get into the corners. We use a glass setting tool (used to install windshields). You might have a thin spatula from the kitchen or a plastic ruler. Any thin, blunt and flexible piece of plastic will do. Use the second towel to dry the surface. We suggest that you clean the outside first. This makes it easier to see where there are any streaks that you want to take care of when you are doing the interior. Lower the windows about three inches to get both sides of the glass which is recessed into the door. If you don't you will have a heavy line of soil that will be very obvious if the window is only partially lowered.
Interior
There are a number of products that are available in both diluted and undiluted options. There are also products that are offered in aerosol and spray versions. We have found that the aerosol versions are frequently easier to use and can be directed into specific areas with less effort. At the same time they will generally be more expensive than their counterpart options.
Cleaning and conditioning of Vinyl and Leather
The first point to make in this section of the handbook is to repeat the statement that you should not condition until the surface is completely clean. Even though there are many manufacturers that include solvents and other cleaning components in their conditioning products, in many situations they will not be sufficient to remove all of the contaminants on these surfaces. Also as mentioned in the preceding section, there is the need to recognize the benefits of products that contain UV screening ingredients. They are expensive, but they protect and prevent early cracking of the surface. Products that contain lanolin are of major benefit to these surfaces.
The first step in cleaning the interior of your vehicle is to give it a thorough vacuuming. The best type of vacuum will have a flexible extension that has a reducing section with a small brush that can be attached to the head end. Using this type of device will allow you to reach into all of the areas that are difficult to reach in the dash and console areas in particular. It will also remove the accumulated dust and other material that would otherwise cause a problem when you proceed to the later cleaning and conditioning steps.
Following the vacuuming, I recommend the use of both a shop towel and a spray bottle for the application of the cleaner. Make sure you get the vents either use a tooth brush, cotton swab or an air compressor. Be careful to test the surface before you begin to make sure that the product will not produce any damage or cause an undue amount of color removal.
I found that after you have sprayed the surface of the dash, you will want to have both a 3 inch brush and a shop towel to remove the excess and smooth out the product across the surface. The brush makes the job of getting into the crevices much easier. You may find that even the cleaner will not remove scuffmarks from the door panels and the plastic covers surrounding the base of the seats. There are two products that will usually handle this type of problem. These products are Acetone and Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). You should be extremely careful in using these products and never use more than a tiny amount followed with quick removal. They should also not be used in an enclosed or unventilated area.
Following the cleaning step, the conditioning step will be essentially the same process. The specific instructions for the product you have selected should be followed. In most cases the manufacturers will recommend buffing the conditioning product after it has had a few minutes to absorb into the surface. Products that contain silicone have an electrostatic attraction and will frequently attract dust to the surface if not buffed.
Regular cleaning and conditioning of vinyl and leather will extend the life of the product by a significant degree. My personal experience is that where there are many manufacturers that indicate that vinyl will not usually last much beyond ten years, I have seen vehicles that are close to twenty years old that have seats that are in excellent condition. There are similar results in maintaining the suppleness and texture of leather.
Cleaning and protecting Carpet and Upholstery
These products usually come in three versions. The options are spray bottles, aerosols and concentrates. The most flexibility is obtained through the concentrates, in that the manufacturer will usually give instructions for how to dilute the product for several types of application. As indicated in the previous section, care should be taken to assure that the product will not cause any unanticipated result such as removal of color.
The surface should be thoroughly vacuumed both before and after use of the cleaner. The range of components in the cleaners is extensive and I will not attempt to cover them in this document. The consistent benefit that you will achieve through re-vacuuming is that you will remove the contaminants that your cleaner has lifted from the surface.
Frequently there is staining at the sill area on the driver's side in particular. I have found that this type of staining seems to respond to the spot use of the aerosol cleaners. Since there are so many products on the market, it is a good idea to review the specific product literature to determine whether the type of soil that you need to clean is indicated in the manufacturer’s description of use.
Using Air Fresheners
There is a wide range of scents available in deodorants/air fresheners. We apply them with an aerosol spray, directly on the surfaces that will absorb the product. These surfaces include the carpet, floor mats and the cloth upholstery (not vinyl and leather). The selection of a particular scent is, of course, a matter of personal taste. Our only advice is to select products that do not have an overpowering aroma.

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